Visit to Quebec and New England
Summer 2001

                     

Maine / Acadia - Page 4

 

 

The next morning we crossed the US/Canadian border into Maine at a very lonely border post in the deep forests. The first small village we met was Moose River. It looked like one of the ghost towns you see in the West. Many houses looked miserable. But the nature around was fantastic

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Moose posing in the meadow
Moosehead Lake, Maine

unspoiled. We left the highway and followed the scenic road to Moosehead Lake. It was a nice recreational area in the deep forest with many lakes. And of course ------ just south of the village we saw several moose. In fact one of them seemed to have the intention of crossing the road in front of us. But we were lucky. One moose mother was standing in a meadow close to the forest border, ready for a photo as you see. As we came further south the landscape changed to hilly farming land and closer to Bangor industrial areas appeared. On our way up to Canada we had picked up a booklet with motel vouchers and we had found a nice price for a motel just north of Belfast. So we drove here. We got a room for 78  US$ for two nights. It had a marvelous view

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View from our motel
Belfast

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Sea Food Restaurant
Belfast

to the Penobscot Bay. Unfortunately they would not let us have one of the nice cabins on the plot for the advertised price. But the room was OK for us. The first evening we went into Belfast and had a nice dinner at the harbor in a Sea Food restaurant. The main reason for coming here was actually to visit the large Acadia National Park. However we also had the opportunity to hike in the local Moose Point park, just a mile away from our motel. The trail along the coast was quite nice, but we did not meet any moose at the Point.

 

Acadia Natl. Park

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Map of our route in blue
(Click on the map for an enlargement)

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We started early in the morning from our motel in Belfast in nice sunshine as predicted on Canadian television. All the way up to Ellsworth along highway 1 gave us breathtaking views to bays, fjords, rivers, islands and we passed many nice holiday resorts. Acadia Natl. Park constitutes mainly the eastern part of Mt. Desert Island, which is shaped like a lobster claw. You can follow our roundtrip on the map above. We entered at Hulls Cove where we made stop at the visitor center. Inside was an interpretive video about the park and outside was a nice garden with exhibition of plants and wildlife within the park. There was also a small museum with Indian artifacts. Because several road constructions were in progress we were not charged the 10 US$ entrance fee.
At the visitor center we also learned about the History of the park. The inhabitants of Mt. Desert Island when the first European explorers arrived were the Wabanaki Indians. Samuel Champlain who was also the founder of Quebec made trade with these Indians from 1604. French and English settlers struggled for the island for about 150 years but around 1760 English settlers prevailed and soon Bar Harbor was established as a town. In the 1850īs tourism emerged and in 1880 Bar Harbor was a busy summer resort with more than 30 hotels. Extravagant summer cottages were built by the wealthy summer residents. Among these summercators were socially prominent families like the Rockefellers, Morgans, Fords, Astors, Vanderbilts and Pulitzers. They all acquired large plots of land and built magnificent summer palaces, which forever altered the rustic character of the island. Ironically enough donations of land by these colonists were the fortunate creation of Acadia. After less than 20 years of land acquisitions Acadia was established as a national park in 1919. It was named Lafayette National Park and was the first natl. park east of the Mississippi. Under English influence the name was changed 10 years later to Acadia. One of the biggest contributors of land was the Rockefeller family. John D. Rockefeller Jr. has also been responsible for the establishment of a 45 miles road inland with 17 beautiful granite and cobblestone bridges. Today these roads are enjoyed by hikers, bicyclists and in winter by cross-country skiers.

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Peregrine falcon

We now entered the 20 miles Park Loop Road. Choosing the eastern loop we had marvelous views to Frenchman Bay and the richly scattered small islands in this bay. South of the visitor center at a rest area an ornithologist had put up a set of professional binoculars to watch a pair of the endangered Peregrine falcons nesting high up in the cliffs. These majestic birds have been reintroduced (hacking) into Acadia. We were so lucky to spot one of the falcons flying high in the sky. You must believe that the spot on top of the photo is the bird. Unfortunately even our 210 mm zoom was not good enough for this work. Further south we made stop at a rather crowded rest area. The attraction here turned out to be Sand Beach, a graceful beach of sand among the high rocks. It is also the starting point for hikes to the close Beehive mountain or the

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Peregrine Falcon

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Anna standing on the cliffs in fron of Sand Beach

highest peak of the island: Cadillac Mountain. We decided to enjoy the scenery and walked on a path along the loop road until Thunder Hole. Here the tides are swept into a narrow granite channel. In the channel the water traps a large amount of air. Upon the escape of the entrapped air a thunderous noise arises. This phenomenon is best watched when waves are going high under strong
winds. On a calm day the Thunder Hole is silent. We walked back and drove comfortably further in our car. At the picturesque Seal Harbor, which is outside the natl.park we had lunch at a nice restaurant. We then reentered the Loop Road and drove north along the two lakes Jordan Pond and Eagle Lake. At Seal Harbor we had studied our brochures and one of the attractions we had noticed was the Bubble Rock which is on a mountain top above Jordan Pond.

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Thunder Hole

 

Bubble Rock

 

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Rising from the north shore of the lovely  Jordan Pond are two rounded mountains; called The Bubbles. We had read that on the top of the south Bubble should be a large peculiar granite stone. So we stopped at a parking lot at the foot of the  mountain and started the half hours climb which was relatively easy. On the top we had a marvelous view to the Loop Road, Jordan Pond and the Cranberry Islands to the south (photo in upper left corner). To our north was Eagle Lake and at our hand Bubble Rock (photo in upper right corner) and to the east we saw Cadillac Mountain and the winding road leading up to the peak. As you see on the left photo there was a nice pile of stones to mark the peak. We decided to descend via the south path to Jordan Pond. This is probably one of the most strenuous climbs we have ever done. we had to climb down sheer rock walls of 2-3 meters height as you see on the left photo. When we arrived lower we had nice birch trees between big rocks (lower photo on the left). When we arrived at the beautiful Jordan Pond we needed a rest (see lower right photo). The short hike back to our car was easy and in one level.
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Next we drove up on Cadillac Mountain. To our surprise this was not really a peak but a large flat stony area. The views were panoramic to all sides, but unfortunately very strong winds prevented us from a more detailed exploration up here. We now headed to the western "claw". Here the National Park only constitute a minor part. To the south this part is more abundantly inhabited and touristic. It is a wonderful playground for a summer vacation but the nature is not as filled with pristine nature as on the eastern claw". We had read so much about the east coast light houses 


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Cadillac Mountain

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Bass Harbor Lighthouse

and the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse particularly should be among the most beautiful. We then drove south, passed Bass Harbor and easily found the light house which was in fact really pretty lying on the edge of the cliff and nicely maintained. It was built as early as 1858 and is now managed by the US Coast Guard. From the lighthouse are views to nice green islands to the south. We now headed north along the western coast. Just before sunset we arrived at Pretty March; an isolated picnic area with views to Bartlett Island. A recent storm had been quite hard to the trees here. On the photo you get an impression of the mess of fallen trees behind Michael and Anna.
We had spent a wonderful day in Acadia and we drove back to our motel in the dark, very tired but also very satisfied. If you have the time you could easily spend a week or more here hiking and relaxing. Probably in the high summer seasons it is too crowded here. Except for the Peregrine Falcon we encountered no wildlife here. Certainly we spent too much time driving. Around the coast line you should be able to watch seals, dolphins (rare) and whales. There are as many as 5 different snakes in the park. Coyote and red foxes are common while black bears are rarely seen.
The next morning after having paid for our lovely motel room we were read for our return to Pittsburgh.

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Late afternoon rest at Pretty Marsh