USA Travel     -    Exploring the Southwest
Summer 1992

 

                                         

Northern Arizona - page 2

  

 

From Tucson we went north to reach our next destination Flagstaff, where we had made reservation for a Cabin at a KOA campsite. These cabins are very basically equipped and we had to bring our own sleeping bags. The price for 3 people was comparable to a cheap motel room (about 30 $). Only because we had been informed in Denmark that accommodation can be hard to find close to Grand Canyon we had chosen this cabin. On the spot we found out that motels are numerous around Flagstaff and you could 

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    KOA cabin at Flagstaff

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Montezuma Castle

easily get a favorable bargain. Unfortunately our timeschedule was too tight to visit Phoenix. But north of Phoenix following the I-17 and after having had a nice lunch at a cozy roadside inn we reached the Montezuma Castle National Monument, an old Indian cliff dwelling dating back to the 12th century. The five storied structure was built by pueblo Indian farmers. Its a well preserved building and worth a visit. We continued along the I-17 and arrived at Flagstaff situated in nice pine forests at an altitude of about

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Sunset Crater Volcano

3000 m. We easily found the KOA campsite where our cabin reservation was ok. The site is situated to the north-east of the city with a nice view to the tallest mountain peak in Arizona: Humphreys Pk (12633 ft). The next day we were going to visit the famous Grand Canyon. On our way north we stopped at Sunset Crater National Monument, which is a peculiar black mountain consisting of loose lava gravel from an eruption about 1000 years ago. At the visitor center a mile long interpretive trail is a good starting point for information about the formation of this peculiar
volcanic landscape. On the picture we are hiking this trail with the black volcano in the background. A little further on from Sunset Crater is the ancient Wupatki National Monument which is a collection of ruins from Anasazi Indian pueblos, inhabited just after the eruptions of the Sunset Volcano. The settlements were abandoned around 1225 for reasons still unknown. A little further on we reached highway 89 again and the rocks became

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Wupatki Indian ruins

very beautifully colored - Painted Desert - as you see at many places in the deserts of the West. At Cameron in the Navajo Reservation we turned left following the Little Colorado River. Just after the turn-off there was a nice viewing point to the River flowing through a deep canyon, quite impressive to us who had still not experienced the grandeur of the Grand Canyon. Navajo Indians also have quite a number of sales booths at this place selling crafts like jewelry and rugs. We could see the "real" canyon coming from the north, but it was only when we reached Desert View that the breathtaking undisturbed sight to this immense landscape was revealed. It is really hard to your eyes and heart really to
                

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Beside the tower at Desert View

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Anna at the edge of the South Rim close to Grand
Canyon Village

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Michael on a hot day on the
South Rim

Grand Canyon   -  South Rim

appreciate the immense depth and vastness of this canyon. Far below in the distance you get a glimpse of the Colorado River winding its way through beautiful red rocks. At Desert Point you can climb inside an old watchtower, decorated with Indian sand paintings. On top of the tower you get a totally unspoiled view to the scenery from a glass enclosed observatory equipped with telescopes. The Colorado River winds through narrow gorges about 1200 m below you. After viewing we had to relax with a small lunch at the adjacent cafe. The road follows the rim until Grand Canyon Village. There are quite a number of viewing points where you can park the car and leave the pine forest for a close look to all these strange rock formations which just appeared to us as in a fairy tale from a far away planet. From

the Village you can take a free busride or walk (13 km) further to the east to Hermits Rest. Unfortunately we had not set aside time for a hike to the bottom of the canyon and probably the hot climate would also have prevented us from doing this. The South Kaibab Trail is a 6.7 miles trail all the way down to the Colorado River; a descent of about 4800 feet. In the inner bottom rocks as old as 1.7 billion years are exposed. A strange thought : we had passed volcanic lava only 1000 years old on our way to Grand Canyon. On our way back to Flagstaff we went due south through Kaibab Natl. Forest where a controlled fire had been started. We were allowed to pass so that's why we believe that the was deliberately started and well under control by the fire fighters. The next day our destination was Gallup in New Mexico. To the south of I-40 about 40 miles from
Flagstaff we visited Meteor Crater. As the crater was once used as a astronauts training center, there is a museum for space missions and meteors inside. The place which is privately owned was first believed to be the remains of an ancient volcano. But now scientists have found evidence that the crater resulted from a huge meteor some 50.000 years ago, leaving the 570 feet deep crater. You cannot descend the crater but from a viewing platform we have taken the picture. From Holbrook we took highway 180 to

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Meteor Crater

 

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Compare the size of the petrified log.
Petrified National Forest

Petrified National Forest which is a huge area containing fossilized conifer trees and wood all over. At the south entrance visitor center you can buy small pieces of petrified logs (found outside the park) for one $ a piece, probably to prevent people from picking their own pieces in the park (which is of course strictly forbidden). The trees date back to the dinosaur era; the Triassic 225 million years ago. Heavy floods have carried the trees to this flat area where volcanic mud has buried them and later they were fossilized by deposits from mineral water. Millions of years later uplift and erosion of the landscape exposed these well preserved logs. Going north after crossing under the I-40 you reach Painted Desert National Park, which consists of dry bare rocks in delicate colors. Arriving early in the

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Painted Desert

morning or late afternoon should be special rewarding. The coloration of the red hues of the sun magnifies the spectacular multicolored scenery. From here we continued along the I-40 to the small city of Gallup which is just after the New Mexican border. Here you find a good selection of motels along the interstate and prices are low because of the competition. The next day we continued north 
past the Navajo Indian capital Window Rock and westwards to Hubbell Trading Post which is now a national historic site. This spectacular stone construction was established as a trading post in the late 1870`s. Hubbell saw it as his mission to help the Navajo Indians by trading their products to the white man. Today Navajo Indians demonstrate craftsmanship inside where rugs were weaved and silversmithing demonstrated. The crafts were sold in

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In front of Hubbell Trading Post

the souvenir shop.   We continued north to Chinle where we had wonderful chickens for lunch in a Kentucky Fried Chickens operated by Navajo Indians. Just east of Chinle is Canyon de Chelly

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Spider Rock

National Monument. You cannot enter the canyon system by car, but there is both a south and north rim drive. We wanted to see the Spider Rock so we went south. The canyon divides into two main arms and is very beautiful with steep red rock walls, a river and dirt roads in the relatively flat bottom and ancient cliff dwellings in the walls. Navajo Indians have small

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The Southern arm of Canyon de Chelly.

farms and hogans on the bottom. The South Rim Drive ends at an overlook to Spider Rock; a double rock tower of which the highest is 800 foot and hosts Spider Woman on top according to the Navajo Legend.
From Chinle we went north through the Navajo Reservation in deserted and fabulous red rock surroundings. It must be a tough work to get a living out of these bare rocks with the sun constantly burning. It was a wonderful lonely drive of about 100 miles to the Colorado border.