With most of the other commissioners (except the Russian) being fairly short-term appointments, Stokes has control. In 1870, Stokes and his wife holiday in Constantinople Among the diversions was a fire which gutted the British Embassy and a war between France and Germany. The defeat of the French encouraged the Czar of Russia to repudiate the Treaty of Paris. Stokes went to Vienna to negotiate with the Austrians, who came to see him while he was in the bath. After discussions with them, Stokes acts on a recommendation to proceed to London, where he gets into a spot of bother with the Foreign Office. Despite this disagreement, Stokes ends up with the job of drafting a Treaty. This completed, Stokes is relieved from his Danube job by a Colonel Gordon. The Stokes' household in Galatz was given forSunday services for his entire fifteen years on the Danube.

Stokes returns to England, and then is appointed Commanding Engineer for South Wales. Apart from his job, he has a lot of recreation, playing croquet, billiards and shooting.

By the end of 1869 the consolidation of the north pier had been nearly completed, with excellent effect upon the depth at the mouth and it was decided to erect an iron lighthouse at the end of the pier in place of the temporary one hitherto in use.

The affairs of the Commission generally, were very much in my hands at this time as, with the exception of the Russian, all the Commissioners had been changed more or less frequently, and therefore the long experience gained since 1856 gave me a preponderating influence at our councils, where, since his efforts to nullify our exertions had proved ineffectual, the Russian Commissioner worked more or less cordially with me in advancing the general interests of the navigation. I was the Commissioner who represented the principal commercial interest in the Danube, the tonnage of the English ships being now superior to that of all the other vessels trading there. The part also which I had played in solving the difficulties as regards finance during the last 10 or 11 years, gave me additional weight, and as I had made a careful study of the statistics of the Commission, which were very interesting in showing the growth of trade and its importance to different countries, I was able from time to time to present reports upon them which very much influenced the decisions of my colleagues. A matter which exercised my mind very much at this time, was the bearing of the Articles of the Tariff upon the English Ships. When the tariff was first levied there was scarcely any steam navigation on the river except by the small steam packs of Austria and France, but the improvements in steam vessels and the growth of the English trade since the mouth was opened had led to an immense increase in the number of English steamships. Thus, from only 16 vessels of 9,000 tons in 1862, our steam navigation had grown to 226 vessels of a tonnage of 119,000 tons in 1869. As these vessels were not mail boats they did not enjoy any of the advantages originally granted to the French and Austrian packets, whilst the latter, owing to the improved depth in the river, had.been transformed from insignificant post-boats into cargo carrying vessels, and were thereby enjoying an unfair privilege over the English ships, as they only paid dues amounting to one quarter of those exacted from other vessels. By successive proposals I finally succeeded in rectifying this dis-proportion.

After the Commission's meetings in the spring of 1870, I went with my wife and daughter to Constantinople. We stopped at Petala's Hotel, Therapia, where in 1856, I had lived for some months. The object of my visit was to show them the beauties of the Bosphorous, and to confer with Sir Henry Elliot, H.M. Ambassador at the Porte, on various matters. When we arrived the weather was cold and wet, although it was the month of May, and I unfortunately caught cold in my eyes. The Embassy surgeon made light of it, and, as the weather improved, we set about visiting all the places of interest. We went to see the Sultan going to Mosque; it was a brilliant day and the heat was excessive. In the afternoon I met the Doctor of the "Cockatrice" who at once asked me what was the matter with my eyes. I told him that I had got cold in them, and suffered some pain. He said, "You ought to go home immediately and remain in a dark room, or you will lose your sight." He gave me Balladonna drops to open the pupils, which had got contracted and fixed by an attack of iritis, and, as the "Cockatrice" was leaving for the Danube on the following day, he put me into the hands of Dr. Patterson of the Seamen's Hospital at Pera, whose experience of ten years in Egypt had made him very expert in treating cases of Opthalmia like that from which I was suffering. After a course of treatment which lasted 8 weeks, and being shut up in a dark room, I gradually, thanks to his skill and to God's goodness recovered my sight, but I have ever since been subject to attacks of a similar character, namely that of rheumatic ophthalmia coupled with iritis.

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While I was shut up at Petala's a great catastrophe occurred in Pera. A fire broke out which destroyed several acres of the town. H.M. Embassy, although it had been built within retired grounds, with the express object of protection from the terrible conflagrations which, occur from time to time, at Constantinople, nevertheless caught fire. The iron shutters became red hot from the heat of the surrounding buildings, and this fine structure was entirely gutted. Before I left Constantinople my brother officer, Major Crossman, R.E. was sent out to examine the building and report as to the best mode of restoring it. This was the first time I met this officer, with whom, in subsequent years I had a good deal to do.

As soon as it was prudent to move, I left Constantinople with my wife to return to Galatz, leaving Gina for a time on a visit to the Guaracinos, as she enjoyed the life. When we got home we found it necessary, on account of an epidemic of diphtheria, to send our other children and their Governess to Mehadia.

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The struggle which at this time broke out between France and Germany deeply engaged the attention of all, and during the remainder of this year, as our works at the mouth of the river drew to completion, our thoughts were entirely directed towards the bloody campaign in France. The disasters of the French army led the Czar, in the autumn, to denounce those articles of the Treaty of Paris which imposed great restrictions upon Russia in the Black Sea. The sanction of that Treaty depended on the ability of France and England to oblige Russia to adhere to its provisions. The utter destruction of the French army therefore gave to the Czar an opportunity, of which he was not slow to avail himself, of breaking loose from the stipulations of the Treaty. The English Government at first wrote a haughty despatch, insisting on its maintenance, but this tone quickly gave place to a more moderate one, suggesting a Conference to be held in London for the consideration of the Czar's declaration. Mr. Gladstone, who was always ready to surrender English interests abroad, saw great justice in the Czar's desire to be free of the restrictions placed upon him in the Black Sea. I, of course only knew of what was going on through the newspapers, but it occurred to me that whatever concessions might be made to Russia as regards her fortifications at Sebastopol and her fleets in the Black Sea, the rights conferred by the Treaty on European Powers to uphold the freedom of navigation in the Danube, ought not to be sacrificed. I therefore wrote very strongly to Lord Granville on the subject, setting forth the view that English interests were of such paramount importance in the Danube, that Great Britain ought to maintain its share in the control of the river, which, under present arrangements, was only extended to the Spring of 1871. I urged that this was an excellent opportunity, while conceding points to Russia, for insisting on our permanent hold upon the Danube.

Towards the end of November I received an intimation from the Foreign of five, that the Austrian Government had requested that I might be allowed to proceed to Vienna to discuss with them matters connected with the navigation of the Danube. This was a very great compliment to me, and a recognition of the friendly cooperation which had always existed between their Commissioners and myself during the 14 years that we had worked together, as well as of their conviction that I.could bring to bear on the discussion with them, a greater knowledge of the question than their own recently appointed representative. I lost no time in starting for Vienna, and a very rough journey I had, for the winter had commenced with deep snow, and the navigation of the river having ceased, I had to make my way firstly by the unfinished railway from Galatz to Roman, and then by road across the broken country to Lemberg, where I took train again for Vienna. There I was most kindly received by Lord Bloomfield, and placed in communication with the Austrian Government. The Minister, through whom I had to act, was Baron Gagern, the Permanent Under Secretary of the Foreign office --- a most courteous and pleasant old gentleman, who spoke English perfectly. Under his directions I saw the various Ministers of the Austrian Government - Count Beust, the Imperial Chancellor, Baron de Pretis, Minister of Commerce, Baron Orzy, a Hungarian Minister, and Count Julian Andrassy, Prime Minister of Hungary, to see whom I went down to Pesth with Baron Gagern. With all these Ministers I had most interesting conversations, of which I took accurate notes at the time.

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Early one morning when I was in my bath, I heard a heavy knock at the door, and asked "Who's there?" "Baron Gagern". "Well, Baron", I said, "I should be very happy to see you, but I am in my bath at this moment; if you like to come in you may." I wrapped a towel round me and he entered. He told me that Count Beust wished to see me at 9 o'clock, so I accordingly got ready as soon as I could. These interviews with the Austrian Ministers extended over several days, and I found that the views which I had expressed to Lord Granville met with very warm support in Austria. They quite agreed with me that, if the Russian power was to be re-instated in the Black Sea, the European control over the mouths of the Danube ought certainly to be perpetuated. One of the arguments which I had used was that, as the guarantee of the Danube loan extended to the year 1883, the existence of the European Commission of the Danube ought, in my opinion, to be made permanent or, at all events, prolonged to that date, and that the jurisdiction of the Commission should be extended to Ibraila: that this town was the real terminus of the sea-going vessels which paid dues at the mouth and that therefore the Commission ought to have control of the navigation over the whole of the river to that point.

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Lord Bloomfield recommended me to write to the Foreign Office, and request permission to go on to London, to lay before H.M. Government the views of the Austrian Government, which had been communicated to me by the various Ministers. No reply came to this application for some days, and he advised me to set out without waiting for an answer, because the Conference was to assemble very soon. I therefore, acting on this advice, started homewards and arrived in London in December, I at once repaired to the Foreign Office, where I was greeted by Mr. Hammond, the Permanent Under Secretary, with the enquiry what I was doing there! I said that I had come home by the advice of the Ambassador to lay before Lord Granville the views expressed to me by the Austro-Hungarian Ministers. He told me I ought, as a soldier, to know better than to desert my post. I replied "I beg your pardon, Sir, I left my post by your orders." My post was, of course, at Galatz. He told me that I could see Lord Granville. I saw him, and found him an icicle. He asked me no questions. However I was told to wait in England for the present. In a very few days I received from the Foreign Office a bundle of papers on which I was desired to report. They contained the views of the Austrian Government on the Danube question. This gave me a fine opportunity of again urging my own views, and I even went so far, in a private letter to Lord Granville, as to say that I considered that English interests would be sacrificed if this occasion was not taken to ensure the continuance of the European Commission of the Danube. From this time forward until, and after the meeting of the London Conference, my relations with the Foreign of five were of the most frequent and satisfactory character. All matters connected with the Danube were constantly referred to me by the Government, and I attended meetings of the Committee of the Cabinet which was considering the Danube questions in relation to the Conference. My services were privately acknowledged in a most gratifying manner by Lord Granville and by other members of the Cabinet. I was in constant communication with the different Ambassadors, and the special Plenipotentiaries sent over to this country for the Conference. So constant and intimate were these consultations that I have been with Lord Granville at midnight and gone from him to the Austrian Ambassador, and had to knock up the Plenipotentiaries from their rest to discuss matters with them. In fact, there was a complete transformation scene from my interviews on arrival to the intimate relations with Ministers for weeks afterwards.

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Finally, I drafted the Articles of the Treaty which embodied the rules for the maintenance of the Danube control. Unfortunately, my suggestion for perpetuating the control did not reach the Sublime Porte in time to get their assent; this had only been given as to the twelve years to 1883, and it was not thought desirable to delay the meetings of the Conference to get any modification of it. My interviews with Musurus Pasha were of the most friendly nature.

I was rather amused during these conferences by Baron Brunnow, for many years Russian Ambassador in this country, calling me to account for not having got on well with the Russian Commissioner on the Danube. I told him that we always got on excellently; we were the best of friends, but our policy was different.

The Austrian Ambassador, Count Apponyi, was always most friendly and his Hungarian colleague acted cordially with me in everything. These conferences went on till the month of March. After the new Treaty - the Treaty of London - was signed, the time approached for me to leave. Mr. Hammond was kind enough to say that I had done my duty, and done it well. Shortly after my return to the Danube, I had the satisfaction of receiving the announcement that Her Majesty had been pleased to make me a Companion of the Bath.

While I was in England, having now brought matters to a satisfactory conclusion, - I had considered that I should now return to my military duty, for I was already suffering loss of promotion through my continued residence on the Danube, and yet I had been unwilling to leave that work until I could consider it at an end. The Inspector General of Fortifications had much discussion with me as to the best man to succeed me on the Danube, and finally, Col. Gordon R.E., of Chinese fame, was recommended for the post. Consequently, early in June, I received an intimation that he would be appointed, and I recommended that he should come out some months before I left, in order that he might be thoroughly initiated into the various complicated arrangements that existed.

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As my time was drawing to an end, it was not desirable to keep my family out there through the heat of the summer, so, early in June, I sent my wife and children home to England. I remained behind with my Private Secretary. During the summer I went down to Constantinople to see Sir. Henry Elliot and to discuss future matters with him, and on my return, at the request of the Turkish Government, I met Hartley at Varna to consider with him the improvement of that harbour. From thence we went up to Shumla, where we were exceedingly well received by the Governor, who gave a review of the Turkish troops there in our honour. This was extremely interesting to us who had been with the Turkish Contingent 15 years before. We were both struck with the improved character of the troops and especially by their having reverted to a uniform more consonant to their habits and appearance; that of the zouave dress, instead of the European trousers which they had been forced to wear during the period in which we knew them. We saw an exceedingly fine body of men, 15,000 strong, march past and the scene was a splendid one. From Shumla we went to Rustchuk, and thence made our way back to Galatz.

At the latter end of October Col. Gordon arrived to take over his Commissionership, and I accompanied him to all the different parts of the Delta. He was a man of extraordinary habits and bearing, whom one could not help liking and appreciating for his simplicity of character and deep religious feeling. He was always smoking and always reading his Bible. He was a man of singular courage and directness but also of singular views, very difficult to get on with.

Although we were perfectly good friends and never had a difference, I could see that there were troublous times in store for those who had to work under him on the Danube. I had prepared, with very great care, a memorandum of some hundred pages, giving him a detailed explanation of every question that would come up for his consideration. I was anxious that things should go on as they had been, but I found that his views were not in favour of English predominance. My object had always been to ensure this predominance and I had succeeded. It was an influence which was for the good of all countries, for, although we took the lead in the work, we did not arrogate to ourselves any of the advantages. It was by ensuring English influence and direction that we had things done honestly and well, and that was a matter which I considered of primary importance in everything connected with this international work.

One of the last things I did as Commissioner, was to approve of some important works at the head of the Delta. The shore had been forming at the point where the Kilia and Toultcha branches separated, and it was decided, on the proposition of Sir Charles Hartley and on my recommendation, that a similar class of works to that which had succeeded so well in the lower parts of the river should be started there. But the mass of water was so large that there was some anxiety felt as to whether the works would produce the same effect. I may here say, that these works proved entirely successful and produced a fine, broad, deep channel, which prevented more water from being turned into the Kilia branch.

In December I relinquished the Commissionership which I had held for over 15 years, and received the most gratifying testimony from all sides, of the appreciation of my own countrymen and of the employees of the Commission, as to the share I had had in the generally successful results of our labours. I received a very handsome silver centre-piece for the table, from the English residents on the Danube, and a silver cup from the employees of the Commission. It was very painful to me to say "good-bye" to the Danube.

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There was one service which I was glad to render to the English community at Galatz which was, I think, an important one. During the whole of my 15 years residence I had given them in my house the advantage of Sunday services. When possible I obtained visits from clergymen and even from two Bishops of Gibraltar, but until within the last three years I had always held the services myself twice every Sunday. During these last three years I had succeeded in rallying the English to subscribe a stipend for a clergyman to come and reside on the Danube, and to visit the different centres of Sulina, Kustendji, and Galatz at regular periods during the year. The Revd. C. La Mothe had come out from England for this purpose, and remained a certain number of weeks at each place. This had given to the English communities at these places an opportunity for religious observances such as they had never enjoyed before. At Sulina Sir Charles Hartley, who warmly seconded me in these efforts, had, with my help, obtained funds to build a church, which was consecrated in due form by Bishop Harris of Gibraltar.

On my way home I visited Vienna and Berlin. At the latter place I had hoped to make the acquaintance of Prince Bismarck. My German colleague, Baron Radowitz, assured me that the Prince would be glad to see me; however I was unsuccessful in this. While I was in Berlin there was much anxiety on account of the dangerous illness of the Prince of Wales, but to our great relief we heard that this had taken a favourable turn. On continuing my journey I travelled in the same carriage with Capt. Goodenough, R.N., his wife and two little boys. I had known his brother as a military apache at Vienna. He himself, poor man, was killed by the natives of the South Sea Islands not long after this.

On arriving in England I found my wife and children in lodgings in Gloucester Place, the poor children being ill with measles. I was able to assist in the grand Thanksgiving Service in St. Paul's for the recovery of the Prince. It was a very imposing ceremony. I was very well received both at the Foreign of five and at the War of fice. I asked to be sent to Chatham for a few months, in order that, after my long diplomatic service on the Danube, I might have an opportunity of going through the new system of drill which had been adopted since I was a youngster.

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This request was granted, and in January 1872 I went down to Chatham as a Lt. Col. attached to the Battalion. Col. Galwey and Col. John Grant gave me a hearty welcome, and I took a house for six months at Boley Hill, Rochester, where I could bring my family, and which we found very comfortable.

While I was doing duty with the Battalion at Chatham the General commanding the District arranged with the Earl of Darnley to have a sham fight in Cobham Park. It was the first and only fight of the kind that had ever taken place there, and, as Col. Grant was away, I was in command of the Engineer Battalion which formed part of the attacking force. (A singular coincidence as the place was so well known to me). we had a lovely day in April for the operations, which were interesting.

In the same month I was offered the post of Commanding Engineer at Sheerness, but I thought that, after our long sojourn on the Danube where my children had rather suffered from the aguish climate, it was undesirable to take up a similar position at the mouth of the Medway and Thames, and I therefore declined it.

In that month I had the sorrow of losing my much beloved and venerated godfather, Sir John Bligh, whose friendship had, all my life, been a great happiness to me.

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In May I was appointed Commanding Engineer in South Wales, my headquarters being at Pembroke Dock. Leaving my family at Boley Hill, I went down to Pembroke to take command, and to try to find a house. This was no easy matter; I scoured the country in all directions, and in the course of my explorations I visited 20 houses, but, although I saw one or two that suited, there was always some obstacle; at last however, I secured a house called Poyston, about three miles from Haverford-west, the property of Mr. Owen of Withybush. He acted most courteously and generously in making arrangements with me. He granted me a lease which enabled me to be quit of the house at any time within six months, a matter of great importance to me.

It was a great happiness again to have a home of our own in England. I had a good pair of horses and a carriage. As a matter of fact Poyston was not a very convenient place for me to live in because my of fine was at Pembroke Dock, and every day I had to drive to Haverfordwest, take train to Newlands, and the ferry across to Pembroke Dock. I always used to carry my lunch with me, and, as a rule, I suppose that I went down to my office 5 days a week. Still, this was better than having a smaller house in the town of Pembroke, and I never regretted having taken Poyston. We had a great many friends all round, and were kindly received by the County people beyond the Cleddau. That side of Pembrokeshire is quite cut off from the other side by the Haven, and by the Cleddau which can only be passed by bridges or ferries at long intervals.

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On the eastern side of this boundary Lord Cawdor used to invite us to stay at Stackpole, I and the Saurins at Orielton, But our communications with them were not so frequent as. with the various houses on the western side of the Cleddau. Mr. Scourfield of Williamston was particularly hospitable, as were the Owens, Massys, Barhams, Higgons, Phillipses and Admiral Stokes. There is not much to be said of this part of my life, except that we had this pleasant neighbourhood, and I used to have a great deal of good shooting, croquet and billiards.

Round Haverfordwest, there is an English speaking population: the district used to be called "Little England beyond Wales", the people were descended from Lollard settlers. I must say that, nevertheless I often had difficulty in understanding my coachman, who spoke a very curious lingo. Driving into Cardiganshire, I found that he could not make himself understood by the people, as he could speak no Welsh, although he was a man of that neighbourhood, we had difficulty in finding our way after we got beyond the English speaking boundary.

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In the summer of 1873, my wife and Edith had gone to town for medical advice and stayed there for some weeks. 1, with Gina and Frank, paid a visit to some very old friends in Cardiganshire, Mr. Brenchley and his wife. I had known Mr. Brenchley when we were boys together. At Glaneirw, Mr. Brenchley's place, I found myself in touch with several old friends whom I had known in former years in Kent. We were near Tiveyside, a valley dividing Cardiganshire from Pembrokeshire. The Tivey flows between high, wooded grounds on either side: there I saw for the first time, an otter hunt - an exciting and interesting sport. I also met there an officer whom I had known in the Turkish Contingent, a Capt. Parry, who was living close by. We had a very pleasant time with the Brenchleys, returning via Carmarthen.

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