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I shot a roll of Kodak E100S on the New Hance. I was not pleased. It was very bluish and I thought only poorly saturated, especially since one is paying a premium for a film that is trying to meet the standard of Fuji's Sensia II 100. Kodak has since come out with their "Elite Chrome extra color" and its pro versions in "EPR64 & EPP100 which may be better. I think, since they are trying to make something as good as Velvia, I'll just shoot Velvia.

Later we shot some sunsets from Mather Point. The vision of the canyon in afterglow (or "alpenglow" ) was majestic. To catch this phenomenon it is merely necessary to use a tripod.  Then, one can do the time exposure necessary to take shots in that warm violet light that exists only for a short time after the sun has set.

Sunday we went over to the lodge at 06:00 as suggested and I did get a spot for the next night at Phantom . Since they provide bedding, towels, food, etc., I would not need to carry anything. Under those circumstances, I felt confidant I could make a trip to the bottom and back, especially since we would be on "corridor trails". This means designated human and mule trails that are well maintained and of even surface, as opposed to the "primitive trails" we’ve used in the past that are just ways to go that often require scrambling through avalanche fields and using route finding skills.

With this accomplished, we set out to do a day hike down the Hermit Trail. This was, what had been, our previously planned route to the bottom. On this day we would only descend 2700 feet over 4 miles, however. Our goal was to view the abyss from "Lookout Point"

As we got about 1700 feet down we came to a wonderful park service rest shelter at "Santa Maria Spring". The spring was a mere trickle but a definitive water source.

The shelter was special though. 

It was stone on the sides and back with a newly redone roof of timbers and shingles. The front wall was simple support poles and lattice that supported a veritable wall of some sort of arbor. Frank thought it was a form of ivy. The main trunks were at least 4 inches in diameter. There was an entrance at one side. Otherwise, it was a solid wall of greenery. It was swarmed by butterflies,

bees, and wasps; but only on the outside (the sunny side). Once inside one found one's self in a wondrous cool haven, free of insects; and dappled with light filtering in through the lush arbor.

The small trickle of Santa Maria Spring served for a well needed refill of our water bottles, as we passed it again on the way out.  I did however, question the decision not to put iodine tabs in the water when I had some serious GI symptoms at home about a week later. These, however, were short lived; and did not recur. So, they were probably not due to giardia etc.

Once out, we were on time to photograph the sunset from Hermit’s Rest (the head of the trail). It was not spectacular from that point on that evening; but a pleasant end to the day.  The next morning we got over to the head of the South Kaibab Trail to do our descent to Phantom Ranch. It was a beautiful morning and there were lots of travelers on the trail. Going downhill is always relatively non-strenuous so we all had an enjoyable if somewhat lengthy (5 1/2 hours ) walk.  The weather was great, sunny and about 65.

At the junction of trails on the Tonto platform ( a major plateau area atop the 1000 feet of granite one descends before getting to the river ) we paused to have our photo taken by the trail sign we’d all ( absent Tom ) posed in front of 12 years ago.  I see little difference in our appearance 11 years later.

From the Tonto platform down, all was new territory for us;  and the views of the bridges  and the Phantom Ranch  as we got near were something I had been wanting to see ever since I first knew they existed.

I guess it's just the knowledge that there are such bits of civilization in, what one knows first hand to be a very remote area, that is so intriguing. Plus, I had never seen very good photos of either the bridges or the ranch anywhere, despite some searching. Now, maybe this website will provide images for others who, like me, have yearned to see the ranch area. I hope so. Especially if it's someone who, for whatever reason, could never have seen it first hand.